Monday, May 24

The third Summer Camp: in Ooty

After the 2 first camps with the youngest children (10-14 and 14-16), we went to Ooty (a large village in the mountains of Tamil Nadu, at the border with Kerala) with 16 teenagers. This time we were only 3 camp leaders: Anna (an other volunteer living in Auroville), Vetri (the social worker from Sharana) and myself.

So we left from the office with the group of children in 4 auto-rickshaws to reach the bus station. After an little hour waiting we climbed into a bus ... 12 hours in a bus, windows open, music as loud as possible to cover the enormous noise of the engine behind which I was sitting. (Just imagine that you are driving on the highway at a speed of 100 km/hour in the second gear to get an idea of the noise !)
Except that ... we were driving no more than 50 km/hour on a staved road with no shock absorbers ... ;-))

Well, anyway ! we arrived safely (probably thanks to Ganesh whose picture was hanging above the drived's head !) on the top of the mountain around 9AM.

After a few hours rest, we held the traditional inauguration of the camp with candles and songs. We were staying in an international Youth Hostel, a bit outside the city.





Waiting for the train ...


When we entered the place, the delicate smell of burning wood came to us ... A fireplace ? no, it was the water boiler in which the water for the bath was warmed up (almost ...) every morning. (What is called a "bath" there is a one-square meter room outside the building with a bucket of water).

During the week, we did lots of visits with the children who were in the mountain for the first time of their life. Eventhough we asked them to take all the warm clothes and a pair of walking shoes they had or to borrow them from family or relatives, almost none of them was properly equiped for the camp. First because this is not stuff they need in Pondicherry and that they couldn't afford purchasing them, but also because they didn't quite realize what it meant to walk in the mountain and how it was to be cold.

So we started the camp by purchasing a few warm clothes for those who were chilled. Almost all of them were wearing chappals (slippers) so we didn't really do many long walks, but other activities like visiting the tea factories and tea fields, doing some sightseeing from the Ooty train (known as being the oldest train in the world), walking in the protected area to see wild animals (we indeed saw wild buffalos from very close but we missed the tiger ...damned !), going to the second highest mountain-chain in India (after the Everest) that you reach through a crowded footpath, and visiting some tribal villages (one of the oldest tribe in India). Actually, I noticed that most of the place we visit or people we meet here are always described as being the highest, the oldest or the best of something ... ;-)



In the Tea field

Arrival at the train station ...

Our group in a tribal village near Ooty


Regarding the communication with the children, I assumed as they were older that they would speak english rather well. Well, they don't. Some of them can understand a little bit what we say, but most of them do know only a few words. Anna, who has been living here for 2 years and had weekly tamil lessons, can speak quite a few tamil words which was often very valuable for the communication, but the understanding of the tamil language is extremely difficult. So what is left is the body language, and with creativity we can say a lot with it !

After 1 day or 2 of distance, we enjoyed seeing how the girls were getting closer to us: once I went to the city with a girl to find an eye doctor, and on the way I managed to sprain (a bit) my second ankle ... When we were back in the girls dormatory, she said a few words to her roommates and they all jumped on me to see how my foot was doing and gave me a foot massage to relief the pain. That was so sweet !

Rajkala, the director of Sharana, preferred not to tell us about the background of each child before the camp to avoid us having a priori, which is a good approach. We just know that most of them were working from their early age and are living in a difficult familial environment (orphan, alcoholic father, etc ...)

It is so amazing to see how wise and respectful they are, despite the environment they've been growing up in. I can't avoid making a comparaison with occidental children coming from equivalent environment, I imagine how difficult it would be to deal with them. What seems to make the difference is that they are raised in villages where there is nothing to envy from the neighbours which are also poor, and also because they are raised in a way where you just accept your condition, whatever it is.

Today Kaladevi the office assistant gave me a call: "Mad'm, please come down, some children from the Ooty camp want to see you !". They did find a book all together to thank me for the nice week we had together at the camp. That is very touching !

Saturday, May 15

Une journée presque tranquille

Aujourd'hui, Samedi 15 mai.

Réveil à 8 heures: je n'ai pas encore pris le rythme de me lever à 5h30 mais cela viendra ... et comme mon appartement communique avec le bureau de l'association situé en-dessous par trois puits de lumière, il m'est de toute façon difficile de dormir après 8 heures samedi compris car cela devient très bruyant.

J'ai beau habité dans un des quartiers les plus calmes de la ville, les fenêtres étant toutes ouvertes (il y a-t'il par ailleurs des vitres ?), le bruit incessant des voitures, des motos et de leur klaxons ne permettrait de toute façon pas d'envisager une grasse matinée !

Pour bien commencer la journée, rien de tel qu'un bon café noir pris au lit afin de profiter encore quelques instants de l'air conditionné ... Je me prépare, met dans les cheveux une guirlande de fleurs de jasmin, achetée la veille au marché central et conservée soigneusement au réfrigérateur, et un bindi entre les sourcils qui au contraire des marques de kumkum et de turméric n'a pas un sens religieux mais est purement esthétique.

9 heures, je descend au bureau faire un tour pour dire bonjour (je ne travaille pas aujourd'hui). Il y a toujours des enfants dans le bureau, sages comme des images, qui viennent timidement apporter les résultats de leur année scolaire afin de pouvoir bénéficier d'une nouvelle année de financement. Sharana autorise un seul échec aux examens, afin de motiver les enfants à étudier sérieusement.

11 heures, je retourne pour la deuxième fois à Mother's Packing and Shipping, une petite échoppe qui s'occupe d'envoyer les colis vers l'Europe. Je dois envoyer un colis de 10 kg de cartes postales en Belgique, à vendre au profit d'une autre organization humanitaire. L'accueil y est chaleureux. Sur le mur, entre Ganesh et Vishnu, on y voit Mère Thérèsa, La Vierge Marie et "La Mère", ainsi s'appelle la fondatrice d'Auroville. Ah, j'oubliais, également une pendule en bois Winny l'Ourson et une horloge en plastique rose à l'effigie du petit chat blanc, si célèbre au japon.

J'apporte donc le colis, qu'on réouvre, ré-empaquète minutieusement et recouvre de tissu que l'on coud avec soin. Comme tout cela prend du temps, je décide d'aller faire un tour pour la nième fois au temple de Ganesh qui se situe à l'angle de la rue. Lakshmi est là, comme tous les jours depuis 11 ans. J'y entre pour la première fois: je découvre sur les murs des peintures en reliefs de Ganesh: des reproductions des plus belles statues de Ganesh dans les temples du monde entier ... Quelques bramanes, torse nu avec leur fameux cordon blanc en travers de la poitrine - signe de reconnaissance de la caste - vaquent à leurs occupations.

A la sortie du temple, il y plein de petites échoppes sous les arbres qui vendent des souvenirs de Ganesh bien sûr, mais également de la Mère et de son confrère Sri Aurobindo. On y vend aussi des fleurs, préparées dans de petits paniers composés d'une noix de coco, d'une banane, d'une poignée d'herbe (pour Lakshmi bien sûr) et d'une fleur de lotus - offrandes à déposer dans le temple.



L A K S H M I


J'achète un bouton de fleur de lotus. Le vendeur me le prépare délicatement: il coupe d'abord la longue tige à une dizaine de centimètres, et ouvre un à un les plus gros pétales. Cette magnifique fleur m'est vendue une roupie ... Je retourne vers l'échoppe, il est bientôt 13h, le colis n'est pas encore prêt.

Je suis tranquillement assise devant la boutique, humant ma fleur de lotus (qui à vrai dire ne sens pas grand-chose) quand un mendiant m'approche en m'exhibant sous le nez la peau de ses jambes et des ses bras terriblement abîmées par une maladie de peau. Cela me rammène brutalement à la réalité.

De retour chez moi sous le soleil brûlant du début d'après-midi, je décide de me faire un repas très européen: des spaghettis au ketchup et du jambon de poulet sous vide acheté la veille dans le plus grand supermarché de la ville (qui ne me change pas beaucoup des petites superettes néerlandaises ...). La seule variété de viande disponible dans ce magasin n'est pas vraiment à mon goût ... c'est peut-être l'occasion de devenir (temporairement) végétarienne !

15h. Je fais une petite sieste au frais sous mon A/C.

16h. Bizarre. On a l'impression que la nuit tombe déjà. Je décide de sortir pour sentir le vent juste avant l'orage. J'en profite pour récupérer les vêtements que j'avais laissé ce matin au "repasseur de rue" qui se trouve juste en façe de la maison (moi qui n'aime pas repasser, je ne vous dis pas comment c'est appréciable !). Le vent se lève. Je me dirige vers la baie du Bengale et m'assois quelques instants sur les rochers à regarder la mer se déchaîner. En quelques minutes, une véritable tempête s'installe. Je me dirige avec peine sous un abri. La pluie, mêlée de sable, entraînée par le vent, fouette le visage. En moins de deux, je me retrouve littéralement trempée. Je rentre chez moi: douche, musique carnatique et encens: de quoi bien commencer la soirée.

Voilà, c'était le compte-rendu d'une de mes journée à Pondy ...

Tuesday, May 11

* * * P H O T O S * * * (click here)

The first week ...

VANAKAM (*) !

Here I am. Finally.
Where to start: so much happened in the past 7 days ! It has been so rich in emotions.
Let's start by the beginning: After 24 hours of travelling with 42 kilos of luggage and without sleep, I arrived in Pondy, more than exhausted - but really happy to be here.On my way from the airport, I had this strange but nice feeling of being back home.

My appartment is really great: about 125 square meters: 25 by 5: I should have brought my roller blades with me ;-)
It is made of one living room/office/hall, 1 veeery long corridor, 1 large bedroom, 1 dinning-room, one guest room, one bathroom and one kitchen. All furnished, pretty basically but very clean.

What I didn't tell you yet is that is is very hot over here ... I mean like: really bloody hot !!! The absolutely great thing is that I have the luxury to have air conditionning in my bedroom, but when I go in the corridor, I have the impression to get into a a sauna combined with turkish bath. I let you imagine ...
They say it is 40 degrees outside BUT that the temperature will be higher in May and June ..................

Actually, I can manage quite ok with the heat (more than what I thought) since it is quite windy outside. You are actually sweating like hell all over your body all day long. For those who worry for my health and know my tendancy not to absorb enough water, don't worry: I drink a lot of water !!! Not yet dehydrated ... ;-)
(By the way, my left ankle is still pretty much hurting and walking all day doesn't help ... hope it will get better within a few weeks)

So After my arrival, I went straight to bed, but of course could not sleep very well: extreme tiredness, and the ongoing choice between the heavy heath, OR the air/co AND the huge noise of the A/C system ... I kind of resolve it by using ear plugs ... ;-)

Rajkala, the director of the SHARANA association, came to pick me up at my wake up to offer me a breakfast out and tell what what was expected from me and when.
Actually, the children summer camp was starting while we were talking, so she said she would pick me up the following day on Monday at 8h30 (understand 5AM with the jet lag ...) to give me a lift to the inauguration of the camp. Regarding my responsibilities, I thought I would have the task to help out and conduct some activities with the children. Well, she said she thought of me to lead the camp ! .......

So here I am, on Monday morning, in front of 54 tamil kids from 8 to 14 years all wisely waiting for us in the camp hall with WELCOME signs and jasmine necklaces for us. Then they ask me to make a speech as director of the camp ...

Gosh !!! I felt so TERRIBLY not at ease ... !!!!

But at the same time it is so nice. I am absolutely amazed how these kids are disciplined and smiling. They all come from poor family. They have been chosen on criteria such as a missing father, or an alcoholic father (Pondicherry is known for his great number of alcohol factories. Alcohol is sold here for only a few rupees, and too many men spend their entire salary on drinking and don't bring back any money home for food or children education. Even some very young children become alcoholic as there is no restriction on alcohol sale).

SHARANA organization organized this year (for the second year in a row) 3 camps with half of their sponsored children (300 in total) . They didn't manage to convince the parents of other half to send them to this camp, as the parents wanted their children to work during their month of holidays, as maid for instance for 150 rupees a month ...

I had a wonderful week with all these kids. You should see their smile on their face. They are all so lovable.
Despite their poverty, it is amazing to see how the girls are so caring about their appearance: beautiful shining punjabis, tons of jewelery and hair always nicely arranged.
We had a very well organized schedule for the entire week, with lots activities for the children (clay work by a famous clay master, Yoga lessons by a professional teacher and many conferences given by University teachers on leadership, behavior improvement, importance of a sanitary way of life ...)

The day was starting at 5h30 (no, it is not a typo ...). Actually, children were even up at 5AM .... I must admit that I couldn't extract myself from the bed before 6AM, so I was ready to join the Hata Yoga class which was starting at 6h30 in the veranda. At 8AM, we were serving the breakfast to the kids and at 9AM we were starting the activities. Regarding the food: morning, lunch and dinner: rice with different spicy sauces. No sweet taste for one week ... !!!
For the snack in the afternoon, it was most of the time green peas or biscuits.
At 1 PM, we had lunch, 5PM snack, 8 PM dinner and 9PM was bed time. The girls wanted to sleep with the neon light switched on as they were afraid. They are not used to sleep without their mother and sisters until they get married and leave the familial house.
I had my own bedroom: eventhough the matresses are hard, they are still softer that the floor where the girls were sleeping ... ;-)

Before I arrived, I had the intention of learning a bit of tamil... my priority has now switched to understanding the english spoken with an indian accent which is not always as easy as it could seem ... ;-) Children's english is really poor and tamil language extremely difficult to speak and understand. So it will be hard but I really believe in the efficiency of body language: we managed quite well to understand each other for the basics, and for the rest, my peers (we were a team of 6) were happy to translate some things for me.
However, getting the rules of a new game understood by everybody (including my colleagues) was sometimes really challenging ! ;-) Good communication exercice though ...




F I R E C A M P



So yesterday evening, we went back with the children in a little van (18 seats - 30 people), tamil music as loud as we could, and 2 girls dancing traditionnal indian dance between the seats with all the other children screaming and clapping: quite a memorable atmosphere, I can tell you !

So when I arrived back in my sauna, with the perspective of a week-end on my own, I suddenly realize that I would be all alone - far away from my family and friends quite a few times - which was quite a tough moment ... I can't give phone calls outside the province from my home, have to go out to find a phone shop in the street. I will try to install the Skype software to be able to call through the internet from home.

Today Saturday I went out in the city. I first walked along the Bay of Bengal (300 meters from my home) and then sat for 2 hours in the central park of the city in front of the Governor palace, where many indians spend the hot hours of the day under the trees. As it was first of May, also labor day in India, lots of families were there for picnic. Several indian families asked me if I would like to stand on the group photo with them, I felt suddenly really like a curious animal ... Then after a (spicy) chicken curry, I went to the city center: Nehru street, Gandhi street. Despite the fact that it was labor day, most of the shops were open so I did a few hours shopping ... very good for the morale ! ;-))

On my way back, I discover a very large hindi temple a bit further down my street. The atmosphere was really cosy: I'll send you some pictures later. And I fnally met HER ! She is the female elephant from the Manukala Vinayagar Koil Street ! Beautiful, with her white paintings on the forehead and gorgious leg- and necklaces. I gave her a banana and she blessed me on the head. ;-)

I am leaving again on Sunday afternoon for the next camp and will be back on Friday the 7th of April at the end of the afternoon. After that, I will have one week where I will visit the kids at their home and prepare the third camp which will be in the mountains ( understands cooler temperature !) from the 16th to the 21st.
I will give you some other news when I am back !

Lots of love,
I hope to hear from you soon and to receive your latest news !

@Lex&rÂ

(*) Salutations in tamil